The Southwest Jewelry Guide

Our founder, Mateo James, is of Spanish, Welsh and Indigenous Native American descent. He grew up in Aztec, New Mexico, on the edge of the Navajo Nation, and does not claim a Yaqui tribal affiliation.

Shops, Trading Posts & Guilds

A hallmark match is a lead, not proof. Several artists can share the same initials, some artists changed their marks over their careers, and marks can be copied. Check a match against the piece's style, materials and age, and ask the seller for a written receipt naming the artist.

We keep these traditions, but we don't own them. Our artists can speak for themselves, but they don't speak for entire nations. We don't make ceremonial items. We use the Zia sun symbol with written permission from the Pueblo of Zia.

Every tribe is different, and beliefs can be unique to a tribe, a clan or even a family. Please take the cultural points in this guide as general information. If you are a tribal member yourself, seek the guidance of your elders or tribal leaders. This guide is not the final authority.

Some of what we have been taught is sacred. It isn't ours to share, so we keep it private out of respect. Some knowledge is earned only through years of apprenticeship. When we don't know what a design means, we say so. We never guess, and meanings differ from one pueblo or nation to the next.

Our guide covers cultural etiquette nation by nation, for anyone buying, wearing or giving Southwest jewelry.

The artist and tribe

• Is this piece Native American made? Who is the artist, and what is their tribal affiliation?
• Do you have any jewelry that is imported?
• Is this piece Native made, Southwest jewelry, or imported?
• Does this piece have the artist's signature hallmark?

Handmade or handcrafted

• How did they make this piece?
• Did they cast these components? Did they roll their own plate? Did they draw their own wire, or buy it from a store? Did they cut their own stones?
• Can they show photos or proof of their process?
• Were these stones cut by hand?

The stones

• Is the stone natural, stabilized, or dyed?
• Where was it mined or sourced?
• Do its appearance and price reflect authenticity?

The mine

• Can the seller name the mine?
• Does the pattern match its origin?
• Are treatments openly disclosed?

The metal

• Does the silver tarnish naturally? (A good sign.)
• Is gold karat or plating clearly marked by a hallmark?
• Is it plated or vermeil?

Casting

• What casting method was used to make this piece?
• Does the maker control their casting process in-house?
• Can the seller describe how the mold was created?

Questions from the T.Skies pocket guide by Mateo James.

Get it in writing

The Indian Arts and Crafts Board recommends a written receipt that includes:

• the artist's name and Tribal affiliation
• the mine the turquoise came from
• whether the turquoise is natural, stabilized or treated
• where the stone was purchased
• the price
• the date
• the business address

IACB turquoise brochure, p. 1.