Needlepoint & Petit Point: The Finest Stones in the Southwest

Schiffer (2008) defined the two cuts:

“Turquoise cut to uniform size with one end rounded and the other end pointed is known as "petit point." When the turquoise is cut with two pointed ends it is known as "needlepoint."”
— Schiffer (2008), p. 22 ^[11]

Schiffer (1996, p. 107) gave the same distinction: “Stones with one end tapered are known as ‘petit point’ and stones with two tapered ends are known as ‘needle point.’” ^[17]

According to Schiffer (2008, p. 22), small round domed pieces of turquoise were sometimes called "snake eyes." ^[11]

Schiffer (2008, p. 39) illustrated a Zuni snowflake pin set with 188 Morenci turquoise needlepoint stones, circa 1965. ^[11]

Schiffer (2008, p. 49) illustrated a 1970s belt of round medallions by Alice Quam, Zuni, each cluster holding thirty-nine petit points around one round stone, 366 stones in all. ^[11]

Bedinger (1973) described the technique at its height:

“The Zunis display their greatest lapidary skill, and "the multitude of the miniature" reaches its ultimate expression, in needlepoint, so named because its extreme delicacy suggests fine needlepoint embroidery.”
— Bedinger (1973), p. 194 ^[12]

According to Bedinger (1973, p. 194), needlepoint stones were slender, minute cabochons with sharply pointed ends, set in straight or curved lines, each held by its own crenelated bezel and often ringed by a thread of twisted silver wire. ^[12]

William and Sarah Turnbaugh (Turnbaugh 2007) placed petitpoint right after cluster work:

“This technique was followed by petitpoint cluster lapidary which uses round, oval, or teardrop shaped stones.”
— Turnbaugh (2007), p. 53 ^[13]

They dated needlepoint (Turnbaugh 2007):

“In about 1940 the needlepoint style appeared, incorporating long, narrow stones that are pointed at both ends.”
— Turnbaugh (2007), p. 53 ^[13]

Turnbaugh (2007, p. 53, caption) illustrated a Zuni petitpoint necklace and earrings in a derivative squash blossom style, ca. 1950, with hand-soldered silver beads; the earrings had been made from two petitpoint beads that were originally a seventh pair on the necklace. ^[13]

Turnbaugh (2007, p. 81, caption) records the same nickname:

“Small Zuni collar with handmade chain and round "petitpoint" lapidary, occasionally called "snake eyes."”
— Turnbaugh (2007), p. 81 ^[13]

Bassman's 1997 glossary defined needlepoint as:

“Needlepoint: Stones that are shaped to a fine point at each end and set in a silver or gold bezel.”
— Bassman (1997), p. 76 ^[14]

Bassman (1997) defined petit point as:

“Petit point: An oval stone ground to a fine point at one end, rounded on the other end and set in a bezel.”
— Bassman (1997), p. 76 ^[14]

The 1975 Turquoise Blue Book defined the two:

“TRUE NEEDLEPOINT: Stone shaped and finished to a fine point at both ends with each piece set in a silver bezeled compartment.”
— Stacey (1975), p. 54 ^[15]

And the second, per the same 1975 caption:

“PETIT POINT: Any modified version of true needlepoint, such as one round end or very small oval, or round cut stones. C. G. Wallace was directly responsible for developing this more recent innovation.”
— Stacey (1975), p. 54 ^[15]

As of 1995, Jacka wrote:

“Today, not only have channel and mosaic inlay techniques been mastered by some Navajo artists, but a few do the Zuni-style needlepoint and petit point as well.”
— Jacka (1995), p. 60 ^[16]

A 1995 caption on the stone chosen for it:

“Due to its even blue color and lack of matrix, the Sleeping Beauty turquoise used here is often favored among jewelers who do needlepoint, petit point, and smaller cluster work.”
— Jacka (1995), p. 63 ^[16]

According to Lund (1976, p. 65), dealers of her day often called a piece needlepoint when most of its stones were needle-shaped, but by her definition any piece that also used teardrop, oval or round stones was petit point, not needlepoint. ^[18]

According to Baxter (2000, p. 120), needlepoint was believed to have started sometime in the 1930s, and the Zuni trader C. G. Wallace claimed that he had encouraged its development as an economic use of small stones left over from other lapidary work. ^[19]

Baxter (2000) added a note on how the style was regarded:

“Even though this technique is not of any great age, needlepoint work is often considered to be a more “traditional” kind of jewelry.”
— Baxter (2000), p. 120 ^[19]

According to Baxter (2000, p. 133), petit point, which Zuni practitioners usually considered a style, was devised like needlepoint to make effective use of small stones left over in the lapidary process, and although it started by the 1930s it was considered a “traditional” technique. ^[19]

According to Baxter (2000, p. 181), Edith Tsabetsaye (Zuni, born 1940) began making her needlepoint turquoise jewelry in 1958. ^[19]

Baxter (2000) described her stonework as

“cutting and grinding the materials to achieve a flawless lapidary effect; her stones are shaped in rounded forms and rise above their serrated bezels.”
— Baxter (2000), p. 181 ^[19]

Baxter (2000) added:

“Her innovative work in needlepoint can be seen in her crescent-shaped curved stones.”
— Baxter (2000), p. 181 ^[19]

Writing in 1993, Tryk set the scene:

“During the 1930s, when America was in the grip of the Great Depression, materials to make jewelry were frequently beyond the budgets of both traders and Indian artists.”
— Tryk (1993), p. 74 ^[20]

According to Tryk (1993, p. 74), at Zuni the famed trader C. G. Wallace suggested that local jewelers use up all the tiny bits of turquoise he had left over from previous projects, and so the needlepoint style was born. ^[20]