Glossary of Southwest & Native American Jewelry Terms

Compiled by Mateo James · T.Skies Jewelry

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P R S T V W Y

A

agate

A semiprecious gemstone consisting of a hard vareiety of chalcedony often found in a wide range of colors.

annealing

Treating metal with heat to change its physical properties for design and workability.

appilique

An element of a design that accents the main design feature.

Appraisal

Professional valuation of a jewelry item.

arranged cluster

Arranged clusters are oriented in a repeating circular pattern starting with a center stone then encasing the center stone with geometrically measured “rows” of stones matching in size and shape.

Art Jewelry

Individually made, one-of-a-kind or limited edition pieces.

Authenticity Certificate

Proof a piece was made by a verified artist.

B

backing

A strong base to reinforce the back side of a stone.

bail (bale)

The bail or bale is a loop or hook that connects a pendant to another piece of jewelry. Traditionally the bail is an independent piece however in Native American jewelry the bail can be completely attached to the pendant.

bangle

An early style bracelet that is a large heavy wire or shank that is decorated with stamp or file work.

bead

A small decorative object that can be strung by a pierced hole in its structure.

bead work

Bead work or beaded jewelry uses strung beads of stone or shell. Beadwork is most commonly seen on necklaces however can be found on just about every type of jewelry. There are many different types of beads and several things that they can be strung on. Beads can be made from gemstones, natural organic materials, metals, glass, or plastic in different shapes and sizes. Most commonly beads are natural stone nuggets and finely cut shell disk beads called heishi. In Native American jewelry, beads are strung on woven thread string, metal cable, or plastic. Historically bead jewelry can be found on classical organic fibers from plants such as yucca, which are very rare but can still be found.

belt

A band that fits around a person's waist traditionally made to support pants. This item of clothing is not only used for utility but also for fashion. In the Native American jewelry industry the buckle or band can be decorated with precious metal and gemstones. The most common style features a leather band decorated with a series of sterling silver oval plaques called conchos.

bench beads

A craftwork type handmade bead when at artist takes two prefabricated metal half bead shells, decorates them and fixes them together.

beveled

A stone that is cut on a slant.

bezel

A metal strip that serves as the side walls of gemstone housing to hold the stone in place.

block turquoise

A synthetic resin turquoise that is colored with dyes. The material is sold in cubic blocks which were it gets its name. There is no real turquoise in true block turquoise. It can be found in a wide range of patterns and colors as manufacturers try to mimic some of the more famous and popular turquoise mines.

bolo tie

A western style necktie consisting on a decorative slide clasp pendant centerpiece strung on braided leather cords.

bowguard

A leather armpiece that protects the arm from the bow string often decorated with silver.

bracelet

A piece of jewelry worn on the arm or wrist.

buckle

A clasp like hinged pin used for fastening two ends of a strap.

burnisher

A tool used to push the bezel around a stone to hold it in place.

button

A small circular garment used to fasten or for decoration.

C

cabochon

a cut and polished gemstone usually in a round or oval shape and flat on one side.

calcite

Calcium carbonate in crystaline form.

Calibrated Stones

Machine-cut to standard sizes for easy setting.

carat

A unit used to measure weight. 5 Carats = 1 Gram

carding

The process of separating the wool fibers before spinning.

cast work

Casting style is jewelry made from cast metal. Casting is the process of heating and melting metal, and then pouring the molten metal into a mold to form the desired shape. There are basic types of casting used in Native American Jewelry; Tufa Casting, Sandcasting, and Machine casting. The end result cast can have different textures according to the type of material that was used as a mold.

chain

A series of metal links used to hang or connect independent pieces of jewelry

chain work

Chain is not generally a style but a way to string, hang or connect other parts of jewelry. However, artists can sometime get creative with their chain work. Most of the time chains are found on necklaces to string pendants or as a terminal finish to give a little style to bead work necklaces. Chains can be either prefabricated or handmade. Handmade chains can take a long time as the artist has to individually create every link and connect them by hand. Handmade chains generally greatly increase the value of a piece.

chalk block turquoise

A type of block turquoise which fine natural, normally unsuable turquoise chalk is added to the resin mixture so that the material can be called real turquoise.

channel

Walls of silver that create grooves to hold stones in place.

channel inlay

Channel is a more rare and traditional style. Channel inlay is where the artists use stripes of metal called channels to hold the stones in place. It is easily recognizable by the segmenting metal lines between the stones. The channels are often made first, and then stones are carefully measured and cut to fit between the channels. Most of the time, a type of epoxy is used to secure the stone for a more secure long term fit.

charoite

A rare silicate mineral that makes a beautiful purple color with cream white matrix.

chemical oxidation

The use a chemical to cause oxidation.

choker necklace

A necklace that fits tightly around the neck.

clasp

An interlocking device used for holding two things together.

cluster

The stone cluster design is another term that refers to the arrangement of the stones. The stones are placed in a non-linear fashion. There are two different types; arranged clusters and random clusters. The arranged cluster is the classical or traditional cluster design, it has been used for many generations by Navajo and Zuni jewelry artists.

coin silver

Silver from melted down coins. Coins were fairly accessible to the general public and Native American silversmiths often melted down the coins as a base for their jewelry. Old coins ranged in silver purity from 75% to 95% until the early 19th century. In 1906 the US passed a law stating that coins had to be at least 90% pure silver. In 1964 the US stopped the use of silver in coins. Coin silver is generally assumed to be less pure than sterling silver or fine silver. The value of Native American jewelry made from coin silver can be actually more valuable. This is because it can be associated with the age of the vintage pieces. A piece of jewelry actually made with coin silver would have to be made prior to the act of 1964.

comtemporary

If the jewelry does not fit into one of these categories then we commonly call it contemporary or “new style”. When contemporary styles become more common then they usually acquire their own nomenclature and become part of its own category. Contemporary jewelry can vary extremely and can sometimes look futuristic or impractical. Native artists are always coming up with new interesting styles to add to the industry.

concho

A round or oval decorative plaque.

cones

Sterling silver pieces used in jewelry to create or transition a design.

copper

a reddish brown metal that is used for jewelry making.

coral

Coral is considered an organic gemstone stone because it originates from the hardened tissue of a Coral Polyp. Corals are marine animals which are found in tropical oceans, they are an important in the support and creation of ocean reefs. Corals produce a hard skeleton made from calcium carbonate secretions. This hardened skeleton is what is collected and used to form the gemstone. Coral is found in many different colors it has become difficult collect many of the varieties due to the diminishing populations of coral. Coral reefs have become an endangered ecosystem and are strictly regulated. Some types of coral have been brought inland for farming and commercial use. One of the most modern and now commonly seen today is Chinese white coral which is stained red for a more natural look. This processed coral is shipped all over the world for jewel crafting and other arts. Coral jewelry has been found in many different cultures around the world. It comes in many different beautiful colors from black to white and from blue to red. Coral jewelry has a history of being strongly connecting with religious and spiritual meanings in the Italian, Chinese and Celtic cultures, it is also one treasure in the Buddhist scriptures. The southwestern Native American tribes quickly acknowledged the value of this jewel. Coral gems are softer than most other gemstones and can be easily shaped in to beads, center stones and other small shapes. It is seen in different types of jewelry that requires intricate sculpting such as inlay jewelry. Small samples of the gem can run up to $1000 per 1 mm diameter for some of the rare forms to about $5 at the low end. The market for coral is doing very well but the supply is slowly depleting which makes the prices for this precious gem continue to rise. Native Americans prefer to use red corals in their jewelry which are rare. Because natural red coral is becoming so scarce, some of the dyed processed gem is used to give that deep red look. One of the most valuable red versions is Oxblood Coral which is farmed in the Mediterranean. The pairing of its natural deep red color in contrast with a well selected turquoise stone can remarkably excaudate the blues and greens making it one of the most desired Native American styles.

crown

The top area of a faceted gem

crucible

A container to melt silver in.

cuff

A jewelry bracelet that covers a fairly large part of the wrist.

culet

A small facet at the very bottom of a gemstone.

Cultural Appropriation vs. Cultural Appreciation

Using vs. honoring cultural symbols; an important distinction for responsible buyers.

D

disk bead

A round flat bead in the shape of a disk or coin with a punctured hole in the center.

Dry Creek

The Dry Creek turquoise mine is located outside of Austin, Nevada. The color of Dry Creek turquoise makes it unique among natural American stones. The turquoise is a very light blue/green, almost off-white.

dyeing

The use of colored dye to enhance the color of a substance or make it more uniform.

E

earring

An article of jewelry that is worn on the ears

Earring Back Types

Posts, hooks, or clips.

Easter Blue

The Easter Blue turquoise mine is a small claim located in southwestern Nevada. The mine is found in the Royston Mining District, along with many other active turquoise producing claims. The Easter Blue mine was initially claimed in 1907.

Ethically Sourced

Materials obtained in a way that respects both people and the environment.

F

facet

A flat polished surface of a gem

felting

The process of soaking an kneading raw wool until it mats together into a fabric

fetish

A carving that is in a shape of an animal or deity

file

A tool used to shave or leave markings on a piece of jewelry.

filework

File work is very similar and also very simple. The artist will use a file sometimes along with a hammer in line markings into patterns along the metal base of the piece of jewelry. File work is also when using a file to shave or scratch the jewelry.

filigree

Wire that is used as applique.

findings

A small article of jewelry or piece of jewelry.

fine silver

99.9% pure silver.

flank

A decorative element of a jewelry that is on the side of another element.

flat bezel

A type of bezel that has no teeth.

flux

A chemical used to prevent the silver from oxidizing.

forge (wrought)

To shape by using a hammer.

Freeform Stones

Hand-shaped, irregular stones preserving natural beauty.

G

Gauge

Thickness of metal sheet or wire.

girdle

The middle section of a gem between the crown and pavilion that usually foram a ridge line.

glass

A hard transparent substance made by melting and rapidly cool sand with other ingrediants.

gold

A deep yellowish precious metal that is highly valued. Used to make Money and jewely.

gold filled / gold foil

A base metal that has been covered in an outer layer of gold.

Gold Karats (10K–24K)

Measure of gold purity (24K is pure gold).

graduated

To be ordered from small to large.

graver

A tool used for cutting or shaving metal.

H

hallmark

A signature stamp used by an artist to mark the art piece as their work.

hammer work

A jewelry style that has been created by using a hammer to create designs or forge its shape.

Handcrafted

Assembled by hand from pre-made components.

Handmade

Created from raw materials by an individual artist.

heishi

A thinly cut shell disk type bead.

Heishi Beads

Small, disk-shaped shell or stone beads, hand-ground and strung (Santo Domingo style).

hook clasp

A simple clasp made of a loop and a hook that hooks in the loop.

host rock

Rock where a precious metal or other materal forms. With turquoise the host rock material becomes the matrix.

housing

The bezel frame that holds a stone or cabochon.

howlite

A naturally white mineral stone as a result of evaporiation made of calcium borosilicate hydroxide. Howlite is often dyed blue to look like turquoise

I

Indian Arts & Crafts Act (IACA)

U.S. law protecting Native artists from misrepresentation; ensures “Native Made” means made by enrolled tribal members.

ingot

A casted block or piece of silver.

inlay

The inlay jewelry style is a lapidary style where flattened stones are measured, cut, shaped, and carefully laid in place to create a design. The Zuni tribe is often given credit for mastering this style of art. There are types of inlay according to how the stones are held in place; channel inlay and stone to stone inlay.

ironwood

Any type of natural tree word that produce hard timber can be used also as center jewelry pieces.

Irradiation

Irradiation is the process by which an item is exposed to radiation used to make turquoise less “chalky”.

ivory

An organic white hard material from the tusks of animals such as elephants and walruses.

J

jacla (jacklas)

Traditional 2 strand beaded Native jewely earrings that are centered with a pendant like stone or shell. Today the Jacla is often hung as a centerpiece of a necklace.

jet

A minor gemstone derived from the decaying of organic wood under extream pressure. This material is black and very light, often found in stone inly and smal cut heishi work.

jewelry (jewellery)

Decorative personal ornaments that are worn on parts of the body.

jewelry nomenclature

The systematic method of naming jewelry

K

kachina

A deity or supernatural being origionating from the Hopi tribe

kachina doll

Scuplted doll to represent a deity

karat

A unit that measures the purity of gold

ketoh

The Navajo word for "bowguard"

Kingman

Kingman is the name of a Turquoise mine in Northwest Arizona. It is named after the town of Kingman, situated 14 miles to the southeast. The closest major city is Las Vegas, Nevada. The Kingman site is next to a large copper mine, which is commonly found alongside turquoise. In fact, the presence of copper is what gives the Kingman Blue turquoise its distinctive hue. Within the umbrella of the Kingman name are actually three separate claims: Mineral Park, Ithaca Peak, and Aztec Mountain. All are known as Kingman turquoise.

kokopelli

A deity that represents fertility

L

lanolin

An oily substance that can be used in making soaps and lotions.

lapindary

The art of cutting, shapping and polishing stones.

lapis

A metamorphic rock ranging in color from bright blue to deep lavender purple.

Lapis Lazuli

Deep blue stone often used for contrast and spiritual significance.

liver of sulfur

A sulfide mixture that is used to chemically oxidize silver.

Lost Wax Casting

Wax model melted away to form a detailed metal duplicate.

M

machine cast

Machine casting is when a design is turned into a prefabricated mold and can be reused many times. This is usually looked down on in the Native American jewelry industry and it takes the uniqueness out of the jewelry. Many factories take advantage of the Native art industry be filling the market with cheap reproductions using this technique.

magnesite

Magnesium carbonate that appears white and sometime crystilne or with host rock matrix. Magnesite can sometimes be dyed to look like turquoise.

malachite

A semiprecious bright green stone variation of copper carbonate

maponi

The Hopi word for "bowguard"

matrix

The part of the host rock that surrounds and intersects the precious material or gemstone often creating a pattern.

matte (matting)

The process of adding texture to metal.

medicine wheel

A sacred hoop used my indigenous Native Americans for healig and other religious purposes that illistrates the 4 directions.

metal accents

Accenting designs made out of metal

mollusk

A boneless animal that produces a hard calcareous exoskeleton called a chell that supports and protects the animals soft parts.

mosaic

a picture or pattern made with stones

mother of pearl

An organic shiny white substance that forms the inner layer of shells of sea creatures such as mollusks, and oysters.

multi stone

The multi stone design is also very common. It is a classification meaning literally more than one stone. It is a broader term used for other unique styles such as Row, Cluster, and Inlay styles. The basic multi stone designs used in Native American jewelry use three to five matching stones. The center stone is usually the largest and most profound, and then is flanked by the other stones. The stones are commonly set in a graduated pattern where the stones are arranged from largest to smallest, starting in the center.

N

naja

Inverted crecent symbol usually made into a pendant found as the center piece of squash blossom necklaces.

Native Inspired

Made in a similar style but not by an enrolled Native artist.

Native Made

Created by an enrolled Native American artist.

Navajo pearl

A completely handmade silver sphearical pearl shaped bead sometimes decorated with stampwork found in Navajo jewelry.

necklace

An article of jewelry that is worn around the neck

needlepoint

Stones that are cut and shapped to have a sharp point at each end.

nickle silver (german silver)

Not actually silver but an alloy of nickel, zinc and copper that appears silver in color. Nickel silver originally called German silver, which is not really silver at all is a far less valued imitation of sterling silver. In the mid 1970s artists started to stamp sterling silver or 925 in their work to indicate the quality of the materials they used. By the late 1980s it became common practice to stamp the sterling marks. If shopping for silver jewelry look for this mark however it is not a guarantee that it truly is sterling silver. Some not so honest silversmiths will sometimes try to stamp the work sterling or 925 on a nickel silver piece. Experts that work with silver on a daily can usually tell if the silver is nickel just by touching it however this is still not 100% accurate. The only way to truly tell is to do a silver acid test. Another clue to look for is to check the hardness. Nickel silver is a much harder metal and smiths working with this material need to be a little stronger with their forge and stamp work. Pieces with stamp designs can look slightly faded because the stamping is not as deep.

nizhóní

Navajo word for "beautiful"

nugget

A raw chunk of precious material

O

onyx

A semiprecious variety of agate usually found in black but can be many different colors. Within the Native American jewelry industry artists usually only use black.

Onyx / Jet

Dark stones used for grounding or accent.

opal

A semiprecious gemstone made of hydrated silica found in a variety of colors and often many colors at once. Opal has manytimes an almost plastic look an feel.

overlay

The overlay style is made when two or more metals are overlaid one on top of another, and then using the depth of the two layers to create dimension in a design. The Hopi tribe is well known for mastering geometric pattern overlay work. The most common overlay design is when the artist cuts out shapes in a silver strip and then layers it on top of a second silver strip. Darkening of the bottom strip by tempering, scratching, or chemically oxidizing the metal is common to help give contrast between the layers.

ox blood

A name for coral that is a dark red color simular to the color of blood.

oxidation

The chemical reaction from being exposed to oxygen. The darekening of silver in the form of patina is the result of oxidation over time.

Oxidized Silver

Silver darkened intentionally for contrast or antique look.

P

patina

The darkening of the surface of metal from oxidation over a period of time.

pavilion

THe lower area of a faceted gem

pendant

A piece of jewelry that hangs.

petrified wood

Fossilzed remains of wood that has turned into stone.

pettipoint

Stones that are cut to be very small usually in a round or oval shape.

planishing

To flatten and widen a piece of metal with a hammer.

plastic

A synthetic material made from carbon polymers.

polish

To make the surface so something smooth and shiney my rubbing it.

polished

Although most styles can be polished and shiny, the polished style of native American jewelry is usually fairly simple and straight forward. The base metal used in the style is smooth and polished to be reflective and shiny, like a mirror. This is commonly found in cuff style bracelets, rings, and earrings. With the polished style, there is not any other accenting work on the metal such as stones or metal stampwork.

Production Jewelry

Mass-produced, factory-made jewelry.

Provenance

The origin or history of a jewelry piece; where it was made and by whom.

pyrite

A golden colored material consisting of crystaline iron disulfide found in turquoise matrix

R

rainbow

The rainbow design is a type of row or cluster multi stone style using more than two colors of stones. The stones don’t necessarily have to be of different type, but the colors have to differ enough to give a minimum of a three color effect. Many Native artists will use all of the colors of the rainbow in these designs.

random cluster

Random cluster designs are when the grouping of stones are dispersed in a seemingly random fashion, and there is not really a pattern to the order of the stones. However, the stones are usually placed evenly and equidistant. The artists have to make careful measurements of the stones and their placement to make all the stones fit evenly in a desired area. Therefore, these designs may not be as random as the name suggests.

raw

A precious stone or metal that has been pulled straight from the earth and has not undergone any processing.

Reconstituted Turquoise

Powdered stone mixed with resin; imitation turquoise.

reconstitution

When fine fragments are to small to be used they are bonded together to form a larger solid mass. Many times other substances are added to the mixture making many “reconstituted” substances artificial.

repousse

Repousse style is another design technique that uses a hammer to shape the jewelry also known as forge work. Unlike stamp work and file work that stamp designs into the metal, repousse work is created when the artist uses a hammer and post on one side of the piece and some kind of shaped template on the other side. The metal will take the shape of the desired template causing the metal to have large indentions. These indentions of different shapes and sizes can be presented in various patterns that form the design

ring

An article of jewelry that is worn on the finger.

rope wire

I set of wires that are braded to form the apearence of a rope and are used as one wire.

row

The row is a type of multi stone design. The row of stones must be in a straight line but can be oriented vertically, horizontally or diagonally. The horizontal row is the most common orientation of stones in Native American jewelry. Another variation of this style is called the multi row design, which describes multiple rows stacked parallel to each other.

Royston

Royston is the name of a turquoise mine and turquoise mining district in southwestern Nevada. Royston is known for its quality dark green to lighter blue color range.

S

Sand Casting

Molten metal poured into a sand mold, creating organic texture.

sandcast

An artist sandcasting will use sandstone to carve out a design. This can take from a few hours to a few months to complete relative to the complexity of the design and skill of the artist. A sandstone cast can be used multiple times before the mold degrades.

scintillation

The flashes of light produced when a diamond or translucent gemstone reflects a light source.

Secondary Market

Resale or collector market for previously owned jewelry.

Setting

The metal structure that holds a stone in place.

shank

A thick wire used as a supporting base or decoration in handmade jewelry.

shank work

Shank work style is jewelry made out of silver wire shanks. Silver and other metals used in jewelry making are sold at supply shops in plates, bars and wires. The wires that reach at least ¼” in diameter can be called shanks. These shanks can take different sizes, from round ¼” wire to thick 1” thick triangular wire. Shank work artists can do many things with them, from weaving smaller shanks together to layering them in different ways. Often, shank work is used to make supportive cuffs for stones and other design elements for bracelets.

sharktooth bezel

A type of bezel that has sharp triangular teeth used to be bent around a stone to hold it in place.

shell

The protective hardened outer organic material created by a mullush or oyster often white but can be found in a variety of colors.

silver plated

A base metal that has been covered in an outer layer of silver.

silversmith (metalsmith)

A Native American Jewely artist that works with silver.

single stone

The single stone style is one of the most common designs in Native American jewelry. The single stone style literally means one stone. The single stone is usually the centerpiece of the jewelry and other designs are in place to accent the stone’s unique qualities and beauty. There are many types of gemstones and natural materials that are commonly used as center-stones in the single stone style. Keep in mind that we refer to all these materials as “stones” though some of them are natural organic materials.

solder

A metal that melts at a low tempature used to join metals together.

Soldering

Joining metals using heat and silver solder.

spiderweb

A pattern of matrix that looks like a spider web.

Spiny Oyster

Colorful shell (orange, purple, red) used in Southwestern jewelry.

spring lock clasp

A type of clasp that uses a small spring to keep the clasped locked.

stabilization

Also known as bonding, stabilization is the binding of turquoise or other natural substances with plastic or glass to increase the durability.

Stabilized Turquoise

Treated with resin to increase durability and preserve color.

stamp (punch)

A tool used to engrave a specific design or hallmark in metal.

stampwork

For stamp work the artist uses a metal stamp and hammers the design into the metal of the piece. The artists can then create beautiful designs using this repeated technique in patterns with single or multiple stamps.

sterling silver

Silver that contains 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals. Sterling silver is the most commonly use base material in the Native American Jewelry industry. It is fairly valuable but not too expensive to be impractical for an artist to use. Although it is less pure than fine silver it is less soft which allows it to be a better base material to work with.

stone to stone inlay

Stone to stone inlay is much more common in modern Native American jewelry. The style is recognized by the stones being in direct contact with one another. The stones are held in place by other stones, the sidewalls of the area of the design, and a strong stone epoxy. It takes a lot of talent to measure and hand cut the stones to fit perfectly together.

T

table facet

A large facet on the top of a gem above the crown

Tax-Deductible Donation

A jewelry donation eligible for charitable tax credit through a 501(c)(3).

terminal caps

Decorative metal pieces that cover the ends of a strip of metal wire, plate of cuff.

tiger eye

A variety of semiprecious lusterous quartz that apears yellowish brown.

Tribal Style

Design elements reflecting the traditional art of a specific Native Nation (e.g., Navajo stampwork, Zuni inlay).

tsil no'oli

A sacred symbol that Means whirling log, a symbol that repersents healing. Often confused as a Nazi swastika but noteably this symbol is flowing in the opposite direction.

tufa

A porus rock made of calcium carbonate used for casting.

tufa cast

Tufa casting is done my using volcanic stone called tufa to do the cast work. Tufa is generally more fragile than sandstone and can be used only once before it has a tendency to crack. This is used many times by artists who want to have a one of a kind bracelet, and prove that it is the only one by delivering the tufa block along with the item.

Tufa Casting

Molten silver poured into carved volcanic tufa stone; unique each time.

Turquoise

A blue-green copper-based stone symbolic of protection and harmony.

turquoise fingerprint

A pattern of coloration and matrix asscociated with a paricular turquoise mine.

V

varicoise

A stone that is either a mix between turquoise and variscite or can not be determined if it is one or the other without labatory testing.

variscite

A blueish gren gem stone that looks very simular to turquoise.

W

wave bezel

A type of bezel that is cut in a wave pattern. The crests of the waves can be bent to hold a stone in place.

waxing

Waxes and oils can be used as treatments to enhance the color and shine of a stone on a piece of jewelry.

White Gold / Rose Gold / Yellow Gold

Alloys of gold with metals that change color.

wire

Metal that has been been formed into a rod or flexible thread.

wire work

The process of using metal wires to create artistic designs

wrought (forge)

To be shapped by beating with a hammer.

Y

Yei

a Navajo diety or holy person

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